Essi Avellan: Medium-deep, peach-hued color. Pleasantly toasty, ripe apricot nose. Pastry and cinnamon. Mouthwatering acidity on the medium-bodied palate. Vivacious and fruity, with some layers. 17

Simon Field: Toasty nose, almost caramelized, with fruit from the more exotic end of the spectrum. The palate is rich and textured but is perhaps a shade hollow, lacking a core of self-belief. 15

Tom Stevenson: Rich red fruits, with a tangy finish, gently supported by a fine mousse. Very enjoyable. 17