Essi Avellan: Deep peach-hued color. Soft red fruit nose with apricot. Full, round, and tart on the palate. Not completely clean. Medium length and foamy mousse. 14

Simon Field: Pink-tinted, this wine has a mature nose of autumnal windfalls and dried flowers. The palate has red-berry power, plenty of grip and self-belief, and as a corollary, a relative lack of elegance. Old-school blanc de noirs. 16

Tom Stevenson: Oxidative nose spoils an otherwise excellent Champagne of some significant intensity. Oxidative-Champagne lovers should love this. 15.5