Stephen Brook: Straw-gold. Light nose; some citrus, as well as apricot, but little evident botrytis. Fresh and silky on the palate, with some spice and pep and a pronounced citric tone. Little depth here at present, though quite stylish and poised. It’s understated but nicely textured, and I suspect this will fill out with more time, and the acidity lifts the wine and gives it persistence. Moreish. 17

Margaret Rand: Very rich and fat, sleek, and complex. The finish just sings; there’s so much here that even its youthful tightness can’t hide it. Vivid, exuberant wine kept in check by structure and acidity. And a great finish that goes on and on. Plenty of elegance and concentration. 18.5

Michael Schuster: Lively mid-gold; honey, wax, faint orange-zest nose; very nicely balanced, rich, elegant middleweight; intensely sweet, long, subtle, complex palate; touch of minerality under the fruit; lovely aromatic persistence. Particularly refined wine—complete. Lovely wine. Now to 2025+. 17.5