Stephen Brook: Medium gold. Oaky apricot nose, almost austere rather than opulent. Lean attack, tight, zesty, not showing much evolution, with well-integrated acidity and a light oaky bite. A discreet and poised style, restrained and understated but none the worse for it. However, I would have hoped for a touch more unctuousness from 2001. 17

Margaret Rand: Roasted and complex, spicy, mineral, very good. Structured, with lots of finesse. A very terroir wine, detailed, subtle. Powerful, too, with lots of depth and layers of flavor. Lovely balance, very fine. 18

Michael Schuster: Mature orange-gold; intense, if simple, mature orange-marmalade nose; concentrated, lively middleweight wine; intensely sweet but fairly straightforward, medium length to taste and on the finish. Fully ready; time to drink. Now. 15