Stephen Brook: Light straw gold. Reticent nose but very precise, with distinct oak and stone-fruit aromas; not flashy or opulent but stylish. Fairly sweet but with good balancing acidity that gives intensity and drive. This is bright and up-front yet doesn’t lack structure and poise. Apricot and passion fruit on the finish, which shows drive and vigor. A wine of charm and elegance, and the balance should insure longevity, too. 18

Margaret Rand: Very marmalade-like confit fruit on the palate—roasted, quite simple but attractive. Two-dimensional rather than three-dimensional. Nice concentration and a good finish. Plenty of richness, but it won’t set the world on fire. 14

Michael Schuster: Mid-gold; still relatively unevolved to smell: light honey and Semillon wax. Rich, concentrated, fresh, very nicely balanced wine; intensely sweet, long, quite complex, graceful palate, gently minerally—a lovely fresh-fruit character and with excellent honey-and-mineral length. Excellent, stylish, complete. Delicious already, with decades to go. 18