Andrew Jefford: A richer, more yellowy gold than its peers. Beautifully woven and crafted aromas in which barrel fermentation has evidently played a major part, yet there is plenty of support from what seems like properly ripe, expressive fruit to draft something rich and harmonious. The palate very nearly sustains all of the promise of the aromas with a rich, succulent, multidimensional flavor profile backed by honey and even a little tangy caramel. It’s not the most subtle wine on the table, and craft has probably had the upper hand over vineyard, but there is plenty to enjoy and chew over in this intense, layered, ridged Chardonnay. 15

Jancis Robinson: Lemon-straw color. Pungent struck-match nose. And real fruit impact on the palate. Ready to enjoy, but very rewarding! A complete package in which the acidity is fully integrated. It certainly isn’t marked! Drink 2010–13. 17.5

Anthony Rose: Pale lemon in color, this wine has a seductively intense smoke-and-mirrors yeasty nuttiness to the aromas; it’s richly concentrated and long, with very fine flavors in an almost Burgundian mold but, above all, a really rich-textured opulence of flavor that’s supported by fine crafting, involving nutty oak and lees-derived complexity; the balance here is excellent, showing intensity and complexity in equal measure, with a feeling that it will surely improve further with extra bottle age. 17.5