Andrew Jefford: Pale to mid-gold. Beautifully crafted aromas: Oak, frankly, takes the lead here, but it is supported by ripe fruit, rich with hazel- and walnuts. Later, something floral becomes apparent. Both nourishing and enticing in aromatic terms. A more vividly acidic palate than these aromas suggested but based on a core of genuinely ripe fruit, with some length, depth, and vinous thrust. The acidity makes the fruits seem a little more citric than the aromatic profile suggested they would be, but there is a little peachy fullness apparent behind the citric front, and the walnuts swing back into action at the very end. Lots going on, but this is still quite an obvious wine. 14

Jancis Robinson: Pale straw. Quite evolved nose—almost qualifies for the famous epithet “dirty French wine”! Oxygen has surely played a part here, to produce a very satisfying mouthful for now. Off-dry. Alcohol quite marked. Chewy finish. Drink 2010–12. 16.5

Anthony Rose: Pale yellow in color, this is decadently opulent, rich, and honeyed on the nose, and equally richly concentrated and textured on the palate, showing a subtle touch of cinnamon-spiced nutty oak, a rich stone-fruit-flavored opulence and beautifully integrated nutty oak tones, finishing complex, rich, and satisfyingly long. It’s a powerful, opulent Chardonnay, to be sure, with real delivery on the nutty, yeast-lees-derived flavor and intensity front, thanks to its incredible concentration and a fine, focused blade of balancing acidity. 18.5