Andrew Jefford: Very pale gold. Delicately creamy, full of stealthy charm. A little honey there, too; dappled with midsummer leafiness. There’s also a mallowy, Indian balsam richness that emerges with time in the glass. Yet another nose of wonderful varietal purity. Not obvious at all. Principally citric on the palate, yet full, round, vinous, long, articulate: This is nature’s citrus, properly reverberative. It tapers to vinosity at the end, and there is fruit scent misting the mouth until the very end of its long palate. Excellent work, if a little bit insistent and obvious at the very end. 15

Jancis Robinson: Pale greenish gold. Quite a rich, broad nose. A very slight hint of the old oaky style. A bit of sweetness and sherbet, but lots of pleasure. Just not much savoriness. Drink 2012–15. 16

Anthony Rose: Pale in color, with an attractively fresh, delicately nutty nose, this is intense and bright, with fine concentration of fruit on the palate and a stylish background of delicate butterscotch and nutty oak; the balance is maintained with a lively streak of citrussy acidity working hand in hand with the light oak nuttiness and finishing with a zesty clean flourish. Still youthful, with plenty of time to develop further complexity in the bottle. 17.5