Andrew Jefford: Pale gold. A truly beguiling aroma: all of the rich, crème anglaise charm of the variety, but realized with considerable finesse. Hazels, too. The fruit seems ripe expressive: mid- to late-summer stone fruits. There is also a welcome savory dimension here: pork fat, a hint of bacon. A nose, in sum, that repays serious investigation. On the palate, the wine is rather less complex than the nose suggested but is interesting nonetheless: clean yet faintly mineral, with bright, sheeny-sheer fruit that manages to shake itself into some finishing complexity. It’s a little bit “taut” and “tight”—domestic Australian virtues, I know, though I feel the rest of the world’s drinkers would like a bit more development. A very serious contender for all that: a refined wine of poise, sophistication, and intricacy. 15.5

Jancis Robinson: Very mineral and tight on the nose. Very pretty and well sculpted, even if not the most intense. I’d love to see this winemaking on slightly more concentrated fruit. Youthful. Drink 2012–15. 16.5

Anthony Rose: Pale in color, this is nicely crafted on the nose, showing subtle lees-stirred characters and a nice nuttiness; similarly on the palate, this is a well-crafted Chardonnay with a nice, ripe creaminess of texture and flavor, all held in check by fine acidity. An attractively balanced dry white, with a degree of complexity and flavor. 16