Andrew Jefford: Medium depth of bright yellow-gold. Clean, fresh, poised aromas; both citrus and citrus zest, given sheen and bottom by carefully judged élevage. Lots of sheer acidic poise on the palate, yet there is some citric juiciness to it, too; cascading lime. Soft glycerol (rather than anything more prominently textured or mineral) carries the central palate. Intense, clean, vinous, and structured, though without much lying outside the central acid core. 14.5

Jancis Robinson: Pale green-gold. The merest hint of filter pad on the nose or something a bit industrial. Very restrained. Maybe just a little too restrained to be really lip-smacking. Rather hard. Drink 2012–15. 16

Anthony Rose: Pale; subtle, fresh nose, with light smokiness promising a degree of complexity; the palate is clean, fresh, and juicy, with a bright citrus fruitiness in the flavors and an element of zesty fresh acidity; a light touch of oak seamlessly integrated in the background. The whole is nicely zingy and fresh, with refreshing cool-climate balance and intensity. 17