Andrew Jefford: The fullest gold of all. On the nose, it is very tangy, rich, and caramelized, with a fair degree of oxidative force, yet I enjoy this, and it gives rise to lots of interesting complexities: a warm southern-hemisphere echo of the singularities of Jura Chardonnay. Apple, tarte tatin. Much the same applies to the palate, now: I wonder if this is low sulfur or zero sulfur, and if it might not have been fresher and livelier a little earlier in its aging trajectory. You have to welcome a wine like this in the sometimes over-regimented, fault-obsessed world of Australian wine creation—a totally secondary, meditative, chewy, naturally articulated, and hugely complex wine made from this compelling variety. Lovely gastronomic stuff, though not for keeping and not for show judges, either. 15

Jancis Robinson: Mid-coppery gold. Funky, almost oxidized on the nose. Peachy. Very unusual! Did this really get an export certificate?! Good drink verging on “natural.” Surely some skin contact? But then, sufficiently exciting to provide interest. A one-off, with amazing persistence. Drink 2011–15. 17

Anthony Rose: The color is a dull gold, the nose showing bruised-apple oxidation of the toffee-apple kind; there’s a rather astonishing spritz on the front of the tongue as if compensating for the baked apple fruit, but it’s not enough to save this wine from its apple-pie oxidation. I suppose that some septuagenarians and octogenarians who love old-fashioned Meursault might actually enjoy this, but it’s not my cup of tea. 14