Andrew Jefford: Classic mid-gold in color. An enigmatic scent profile: round, more articulate than many, yet neither principally fruity nor creamy. There is the varietal affability one hopes for, yet it is backed by a yeastiness, a vitamin-B-complex meaty warmth. Interesting rather than sublime. Fresh, edgy, perhaps a little slight on the palate, without either texture or vinous depths. Good wine, and I don’t want to suggest there is anything crass or coarse about it, but it doesn’t have the poise, texture, and complexity of the best. 13

Jancis Robinson: Pale straw. Sweet bonbon sort of nose. Strong herbal notes. Quite racy but not bone-dry. Well made, with marked acidity. Slightly chewy finish. Should develop well. Drink 2012–15. 16

Anthony Rose: Pale in color, the nose of this Chardonnay is marked by an attractive freshness and a touch of nutty oak and yeasty complexity derived from the stirring of the lees in the barrel; the flavors are attractive, a peachy fruit quality underscored by the same degree of nuttiness and leesy complexity found on the nose and finishing with a tangy flourish. You could be forgiven for mistaking this for a Meursault. 17