Andrew Jefford: A proper full gold in color. Rich, languid, harmonious, and complex. We are obviously at the warmer-climate end of the Chardonnay spectrum, but this wine offers wonderful aromas of ripe lemony fruit, straw, cheese paste, pork fat, and wild flowers. On the palate, it is of course acidic, yet behind that acidity is lots of the intricate flavor detail that only comes with full ripeness, and the allusive repertoire isn’t hugely different to the aromas. Shaped and firmed by the acidity, yet there is lots apart and aside from that to enjoy. Engaging and articulate. 15.5

Jancis Robinson: Greenish straw. Open, sweetish nose, with some development. Restrained and well mannered, but it doesn’t really have that much impact. An early attempt at the new style? Slightly hot finish. Drink 2012–14. 16

Anthony Rose: Pale lemon in color, sweet powder-puff nose, tangy apple-and-lemony Chardonnay, with nice freshness and drinkability and good, juicy, seamless fruit quality, attractively textured with a rather salty and tangy bite on the finish. 14.5