Andrew Jefford: Pale gold and silver shot. Complex and refined aromas: a base of delicate, taut apple and grapefruit tones, with some underlying leesy richness and some iris-root complexities. Very attractive aromatic profile. A rather less giving palate, by contrast: very fresh, lively, and taut; apple-fresh, green apple, without a lot of depth or texture, vinosity, or length. But it’s a clean, well-made, energetic Chardonnay, and the aromatic allusiveness would keep drawing you back to the glass. Bright, young, a little raw. 14

Jancis Robinson: Very pale. Light, vaguely mineral nose. Very tight. Made with great ambition for the long term but just a tad sweet. Very chewy for now. Drink 2013–17. 16

Anthony Rose: Pale in color, there’s a sweet custard-cream and smoked-meat character to the aromas of this Chardonnay; good spritz freshness and an attractively ripe and juicy rich fruitiness, with a creaminess of texture, yeasty, lees-derived flavors, and good fresh acidity bringing a nice dry finish and balance to a well-made, seamlessly fruity dry white. Lots to like here. 17