Andrew Jefford: Medium to full gold in color. The boldest of the aromas of this cool-climate run so far: richer, sunnier citrus scents; honey and pollen; warm, still sunrise over the summer landscape. The palate is quite tangily rich, weighty, evident. I still get a sense of natural articulation and a cooler place than many, but this is a wine of exuberance and not intricacy. Successful nonetheless. More Pouilly-Fuissé or Mâconnais than Chablisien or Côte d’Or. I like the vinous, structured aftertaste in which some of the citrus and early-season, tooth-firm apricot fruits linger. 14

Jancis Robinson: Mid-gold. Some mineral saltiness and evolution on the nose. Very solid and attractively dry. Quite a chewy finish, as though whoever made it went their own way. Acidity not that marked. Drink 2011–13. 16

Anthony Rose: Relatively advanced in color, with quite a strong straw-yellow hue and peachy undertone suggesting some maturity with some underlying sweet barrel-fermentation notes. The fruit is quite peachy in character, with quite high acid bringing a slightly surprising tartness to the finish. There is something a little disjointed in the overall makeup of this Chardonnay that is hard to put your finger on. 15.5