Andrew Jefford: Clear, limpid red. Lovely scents: graceful, fresh, lively, tracing aromatic arabesques in the air. On the basis of aromas alone, I would say that the ripeness has been perfectly judged here. On the palate, the wine is deep, resonant; a mid-weight in this tasting (which, let’s face it, is approbation). It is hugely graceful and charming in terms of its fruit qualities (redcurrant and raspberry); it has very finely judged tannins and extracts, and very evident is the complexity that should be inherent in the Pinot skins. A touch more fleshiness of fruit would be welcome. There is some glycerol to carry the wine across the palate. Its aromatic qualities continue to power through the palate, too. It doesn’t yet have any sense of mineral complexity, and for my palate the creator could risk a little more tannin extraction (if the skins have that in them). But in every other respect, this is a gorgeous Pinot. It could be either Australia or New Zealand, since Pinot culture sings out of every molecule of this wine, but let’s go for Australia. 17

Anthony Rose: Bright, lively cherryish in color; good cherryish aromas and attractively juicy sweet strawberryish fruit quality. Distinctively Pinot Noir, with a bright, lively, juicy texture and silky supple tannins, with nicely integrated spicy oak and good savory fresh acidity. A really nice seamless quality of Pinot Noir fruitiness: no hard edges but just enough sinewy tannins to bring the right level of structure to the wine. New Zealand. 18

Joanna Simon: Bright and quite deep; ruby-garnet. Very fragrant, with cherries and bergamot. Maturing red-fruit palate, with touches of chocolate and coffee. Quite mouth-filling and silky. Still fresh and has developed some interesting gamey complexity, but at its peak and probably not going anywhere. Quite alcoholic. New Zealand? 15.5