Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red, its opacity almost shed. Quite a warm site, to judge by the aromas. The red fruit has been brought to full ripeness, and the shimmering vanilla warmth of the oak handling mingles with it in an easy and unfussy harmony. Lovely scents, in sum. Vivacious red-fruit depths here, and lots of searching, penetrating depth to the wine. That warmth has given it a sinewy, structured, serpentine, almost overly vinous and assertive style, but this is still a commanding Pinot of classicism and concentration. I would think about easing back on something or other for future vintages, to try to bring in more flesh, more charm, and a little less finishing rigor. New Zealand. 15.5

Anthony Rose: Deep ruby in color. This is distinctively, sensationally Pinot on the nose, with a combination of rich, sweet red-berry fruits, coffee-bean oak, and some of the underlying, evolved gamey characters of Pinot Noir in transforming mode. Beautifully sweet, bright, and cherryish/strawberryish on the palate, it’s both juicy and salty/savory, with a sinewy texture and superb concentration and complexity. This is an intense, ultra-modern, and stylish Pinot Noir with a lot going for it, but it needs time and will repay cellaring. New Zealand 18

Joanna Simon: Deepish color, though without its youthful brightness. Fresh cherry and bergamot combined with meaty maturity and coffeeish oak on the nose. Intense, cherryish red-fruit flavors on the palate, with spicy edges. Full and mouth-filling and still has tannin and acidity, but the fruit is beginning to dry. New Zealand? 12.5