Andrew Jefford: Clear black-red in color. A gentle, ruminative scent that combines shy red fruit with some tobacco complexities. Warm and relaxed scents. On the palate, this is rather dry, rather elemental; the flesh has gone a little too soon, and the wine is settling back on to its bone structure. There is plenty of concentration and plenty, too, of that bone structure; yet the overall austerity of the flavor profile and the finishing acidic dryness, just fleshed out a touch by some chewy licorice spice, make it a drinking challenge. The drinker really does hope for a little more sweet fleshiness, poise, and contour at this stage. All of that said, I welcome the tannins here, which give the wine seriousness and gastronomic cut. Difficult vintage? Australia? 12.5

Anthony Rose: Bright mid-ruby hue. This is a tad closed on the nose, with a hint of balsam, mint, and coffee-bean oakiness to it—and a little strange with it. Equally, there’s a red-fruit character with rustic dry tannins and a quite tart cranberry bite to it and a slightly astringent twist on the finish. More in dry-red mode than distinctively Pinot, this definitely needs food. New Zealand. 16.5

Joanna Simon: Deep color. Very aromatic in the black-fruit spectrum. Very concentrated palate: black fruit, youthful, licorice-like, almost tarry flavors. Dense texture cut by persuasive fresh acidity; ripe but nonetheless coating tannins. A touch of bitterness, but it’s still young. Needs time. New Zealand? 16