Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon-yellow color. Charming, fine-tuned nose, with sweet fruit backed up by rich, toasty notes. Gunflint and coffee notes. Smooth and silky on the long palate. The same aromatics continue on the intensely fruity but refreshing and focused palate. A good degree of both finesse and harmony. 18.5

Michael Edwards: Mid-yellow, inconspicuous hue; warm earth nose but develops vinosity with air; a vanilla, honeyed, even rancio aspect. A full and vinous palate, rich and very goût anglais. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Lovely, pale, youthful color. Classic toasty-mature Champagne; beautifully focused by very fine acidity. Absolutely stunning. Apart from the toastiness, this is an extraordinarily youthful Champagne, full of citrus, vanilla, brioche, and very bright fruit, with a very obvious capacity for the development of even greater complexity. 19