Essi Avellan: Deep lemon-gold color. Pronounced, smoky, toasty nose, with sweet tropical notes, vanilla, coffee, and floral finesse. Fluffy, loose, but gentle mousse on the medium-bodied, refreshing palate. The nose has more charm than the palate, which is accentuated by woody toast notes. Juicy texture and long, pleasant finish. 16

Michael Edwards: Mid yellow-gold: low-key but classy, harmonious nose, spices; fine mouthfeel and texture, integration of gently evolving fruit, vinosity, and a mousse that caresses the palate. Vin fin. 17

Tom Stevenson: Some sulfur, indicating a fairly recent disgorgement, underneath which there is a strangely perfumed wine, not immediately Champagne, but with high acidity and good focus. A touch of bitterness on the finish indicates a kernel of undeveloped extract that will develop. 14