Essi Avellan: Medium-deep color, with a peachy hue. Ripe and round, straightforward Pinot nose with red-fruit, bruised-apple, and gentle spicy notes. Full and round on the palate, with a piercing acidity. Medium-long, with a drying finish. Simple and fruity but lacking finesse. 14

Michael Edwards: Elegant yellow, gold lights, not forced; harmony of ripe fruit and acidity on nose; the mouthfeel shows brisk acidity and ripe, evolved fruit. 16

Tom Stevenson: Clean, crisp, nice dry finish, but apart from the autolytic complexity, it does seem somewhat straightforward for a 12- or 13-year-old Champagne. This could be a plus if it does develop more complexity. 15