Essi Avellan: Deep lemon color. Pronounced, soft, and lactic nose of vanilla, fudge, and floral notes. Not fully clean, and with too much phenolic bitterness. 13

Michael Edwards: Lemon-gold. Good maturity, with the drive of an active but not aggressive mousse; preserved flavors of crystallized fruit. Attractive and holding up. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Tastes like an initially fine Champagne that shows the signs (goatiness!) of going over. 13