Tim Atkin: Some development, but it is a 2007. Composty, oxidative nose. A little overripe? Lots of oak, lots of alcohol, lots of tannin, but the wine tastes dry and clunky overall. Too much extraction here 10

Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, quasi-opaque. Nose uneventful. Plenty of fruit on palate; deep and rich if not particularly complex. Satisfying glugger, drinking now and for a couple of years. Wants something like game or cheese 14

Bruno Besa: Black core to garnet-pink rim. Mature, fairly developed nose, with dark black-fruit and smoked-meat notes and Mediterranean herbs. Full-bodied palate, with big tannins well balanced by the great fruit, just slightly short. A classic, big southern red full of personality 17