Tim Atkin: Dense purple. Very youthful for a 2007. Alcohol-dominated nose, with lots of baked fruit and some oak. Oaky, rich, and plummy, with slightly drying tannins. Finishes a little extracted 14

Stephen Brook: Opaque red. Voluptuous plum-andblueberry nose, with some sweet oak—this is seductive. Plump and juicy, with reasonable concentration and depth of fruit; this has the sensuous appeal of good Syrah without lapsing into flab. There’s ample acidity, little obvious tannin, and a certain vibrancy that suggests it still has plenty of life in it. There’s plenty of grip on the finish and some elegance and persistence 17.5

Alex Hunt: A very gentle, beguiling nose of cooked blackberry, coconut, and a touch of pepper. While wood has a key role on the palate, it’s not out of place, and the overall balance is delightful 15.5