Tim Atkin: Inky, opaque, dense color. Confected nose, mocha and chocolate, oak-dominated. Dense, powerful, verging on oxidative style. Very in-your-face flavors: plum jam, with some sawdusty oak. A one-glass wine 12

Stephen Brook: Opaque red. Ripe blackberry-jam nose, yet doesn’t seem overripe, and there’s a bracing espresso tone. Broad, lush, and rounded, this is opulent and creamy. There’s a hint of sweetness that is probably derived from alcohol rather than unfermented sugar, but it contributes to a hedonistic and approachable mouthful. Lightly structured, it also has good acidity, which gives some lift and charm to the finish. Not for long cellaring, despite some sprightly tannins. Quite long 16

Alex Hunt: Saturated color and gorgeous inky depths of black fruit, offset by hints of tar and scorched earth. Thick yet remarkably vivid on the palate, this is a Henry Rollins wine—a bruiser of disarming eloquence. The tannins are present but well controlled, the ripeness gets into apricot territory but never raisin, the acidity is sufficient but not jarring. A defiantly original take on the variety 17.5