Alex Hunt: This nose hangs thick with aroma: blackcurrant linctus, dense smoke, and tar. The palate, too, is full-on, with the intense, jammy fruit happily leavened by a smoky pencil-lead component. I’m less happy with the burned-rubber note. (Yes, this does taste a bit South African.) Overall, this is thrilling but uncivilized company - 15.5

Andrew Jefford: Saturated deep black-red. Smooth, engaging, lush, with a little smoky finesse and a little floral lift, too. This is a wine made in a fruit-bomb style: all ripe fruit and sweet oak on the palate. But that fruit can take it: It’s ample, round, concentrated, and attractive. The overall effect is curvaceous, hedonistic, and beguiling. Such complexity as there is comes from a faintly saline cast to the flavors, and that saves it from being too much of a Black Forest gâteau. Good fun; good drinking - 15

Jancis Robinson: Dark crimson. Sweet, black fruits, attractive and easy, even if not that complex. A candified start and then some leathery fruit. Still lots of fine-grained tannin and quite a bit of alcohol on the finish but not fatally so. Falls away a little on the end. Well-handled fruit and oak and just a little astringent at present. Drink 2014–19 - 16.5