Andrew Jefford: Saturated, dense black-red. Earthy, deep, and full; slightly gruff aromas, with lots of pounded stone and some meaty, bacon-like richness but less fresh fruit. Rich, full, tangy, dense, and reverberative, with huge freight of tannin at this stage, but there’s a containment and a slightly baked quality to this that doesn’t necessarily bode well for a long future. Lacks a little freshness and life in terms of its fruit—all extractive. The qualities of extract are magnificent, however. This is a very dense, very penetrating, almost mouth-shattering wine at this stage. I just wish the fruit was a little less figgy 15.5

Richard Mayson: Very deep opaque black color; thin crimson rim. Opulent nose, lovely purity of fruit; still very young, but this already sings from the glass. Sweet peppery fruit, powerful, big ripe tannins rising in the mouth, but why do I find a strange touch of salami here? Big finish. Quite impressive and well built 17.5 Jancis Robinson: Very deep, blackish crimson. Very rich, round, and yet explosive. Like the sweetest form of tea, sort of meat tea, a Victorian pick-me-up. Tannins remarkable, but the fruit suggests it will sustain the wine while the tannins subside. Tastes as though it would do you good! Very rich. Very sweet but still pretty chewy. Drink 2018–30 17