Andrew Jefford: Very pale, clear walnut in color. Lots of smoky cask notes, here, over dried peach, green raisin, a touch of char, moist vanilla, even dried cherry. Refined and harmonious aromas. Rich, sweet, poised, and succulent palate of great harmony. The acidity is beginning to come forward within the wine’s profile, but there’s nothing rigid or bony about it; the correlative of that is the appearance of tangy apple and driedpeach- skin notes at the very end. A skein of tannins, though I’m unsure now if they are grape-skin, seed, or wood tannins. Deft and disarming; very good indeed, though not particularly volumetric anymore 16

Richard Mayson: Mid-amber with a touch of green on the rim; maderized nose, but is this Madeira? There is a not-unattractive savory baked character here, like a goat’s cheese soufflé; sweet, rich in style, clean tawny marmalade fruit well balanced but without the thwack of acidity of a Madeira, leaving a soft, candied finish. Clean and well made but not terribly exciting in this context 13.5 Jancis Robinson: Very pale greenish tawny. Sweet and sticky nose. Racy and robust. Not that sweet on the palate—very vigorous attack with racy, whistle-clean finish. Quite delicate. Complete, if very slightly dusty on the finish. Drink 2000–20 18. :