Andrew Jefford: Saturated black-red in color. Warm, sweet, beefy, and smoky, full of damson, elderberry, and sloe charm. There’s a big mineral hit here, too—the smell of crushed stone. Smooth, lush, and gratifying on the palate, textured and deep, though somehow modestly fortified and unvinous; there is a lightness and a freshness on the palate I wasn’t expecting. (Is it a must component?) Fresh and deliciously primary in the context of this tasting 16

Richard Mayson: Deep, opaque crimson “blue” ruby; lovely pure berry-fruit aromas, youthful yet overt; pure blackberry and blackcurrant fruit—lovely but very sweet, forward, and up-front, coats the mouth with tannin without having a great deal of structure or weight behind, and it falls away on the finish 13 Jancis Robinson: Blackish crimson. Herby/savory nose. Lots of lift and acidity and quite a dry finish. Masses of chew. Seems rather lean served immediately after ancient Oz sticky... Lots of fresh acidity. Drink 2014–24 16.5