Andrew Jefford: Clear walnut; mid-depth of color. Very toasty, very charred; burned raisin fruit beneath. Other burned things, too: burned cherry flesh, even burned chocolate. Smoky... smoking ruins? Rather strange but forthcoming; no shortage of character. On the palate, it is rather drier than I expected, with plenty of those burned notes right the way through, and a finish that mainly seems to be wood essence. Perhaps the oddest wine of the tasting so far. Not convinced, I’m afraid. 11

Richard Mayson: Slightly cloudy olive-tinged tawny; rather a lovely singed nose. If it wasn’t for the color, I would guess at Madeira. Autumn leaves left over after a bonfire; tastes quite different, though, with savory dry Tawny character, but richer than I would have expected. Very complex, leathery, savory finish. I just can’t pinpoint this, but I like it very much. It has poise and finesse 18. Jancis Robinson: Rich orange tawny. Mulled-wine/mincepie nose. Mid-sweet start but oddly neutral on the mid-palate. Not that sweet but strangely uncommunicative. Dryness and acidity on the finish make it quite hard work at the moment. Dull and rather simple somehow. Drink 2015–25 15.5