Andrew Jefford: Burnished pale russet in color. Exuberant twists of barley sugar, with lots of luscious malty richness, too. Sweet, warm, and enticing. Soft, tangy, rich, and very sweet: a silk-smooth tide of liquid sugar swims over the tongue, then afterward you notice its inner aromatic complexities: malt, aromatic plants like rue or lavender, raisin, treacle, and dusty fig. Weighty and gratifying 15.5