Tim Atkin: Mid-lemon straw, a little development, some phenolics? Richer style, with some tropical fruit, good definition and texture. A complex wine, with good acidity, and age adding a little honey and toast. The extra age is significant here. More complex, with spice and some pear skin. Good length 16.5

Jesús Barquín: Straw yellow, with green hues. Perfumed, slightly off-dry, more complex and serious than other wines in this flight [DO Ribeiro] —no doubt as a result of the beneficial effects of an extra year in bottle. The nose shows a slight hint of evolution, and the palate a fattier texture 14.5

Simon Field: Deeper color, with an oaky nose, hints of boiled sweets, and nougat; palate sweetness redolent of oranges and hints of marmalade; creamy but not overly seductive 14