Tim Atkin: Mid-straw/lemon. Lots of carbon dioxide again. Flat nose, touch of cork taint? Higher alcohol, slightly riper style, but the phenolics are there on the palate, too, with a faintly dry, bitter note. High-acid finish. Not very well balanced. Second bottle was a little fresher and less phenolic 13

Jesús Barquín: Straw yellow, with green hues. A hint of aniseed and slightly tiresome tropical-fruit notes. The palate lacks a little balance 13

Simon Field: Slightly oaky nose, with hints of peach stone. The palate is balanced, with refreshing natural acidity to underwrite the floral charm. Typical, with a palate that is quite restrained yet expressive—a pleasing contradiction here. The finish is clean, with plenty of gusto 16