Tim Atkin: Mid-straw. Salty, savory, yeasty, almost flor-like nose. Delicious Grillo, salty, savory, and fresh; minerally and sappy and long. Incredible acidity and zip and minerality and tang. Nutty, almonds, slight volatility. Grillo meets Fino Sherry. What a wine! Long and complex. One of the great whites of the world, not just Italy. A tightrope walk, gloriously realized 19

Nicolas Belfrage: 1 = color of water and 9 = deep gold: Col 2. What a difference from eastern styles, yet very varied, with lowish acidity and loads of perfumed flavors. Long and balanced and totally itself, though here slightly reminiscent of Traminer or Viognier. Lovely 17

Alex Hunt: Captivating aromatic blend of smoke and ripe fruit—a sort of peachy bonfire. Utterly audacious wine, with everything to lose: It’s evolved, savory, uncompromising, but the balance is virtuosic. The middle-ofthe- road structure is the perfect foil for the unusual flavors, and the harmony between the two is sensational. A little bit of VA and tannin are more than offset by the generosity and cohesion of perfume. This is one of those very rare wines that manages to plow a completely individual furrow— and win 18