Tim Atkin: Very pale lemon. Savory, bacon-fat nose. Highly unusual. Complex, peppery, bone-dry; very fresh, almost tart, but the tartness is surrounded by spicy, herbal, Mediterranean flavors and angelica spice. A complex one-off, endowed with length and beautiful balance and remarkable minerality 18

Nicolas Belfrage: 1 = color of water and 9 = deep gold: Col 2. Flinty, immediately alluring nose. Clean and pure, with very attractive minerality and a salty, minerally character of real class. Could drink it all night, and the (today) relatively low alcohol would not punish you too much. Essence of fine, subtle Italian crisp dry white 17.5

Alex Hunt: Delicate but persistent aromas of white peach and citrus. Good concentration of fruit up-front tapers to a poised, if rather dry, finish. Sweet-natured and well made, though not hugely exciting 15