Tim Atkin: Pale/mid-straw. Funky, complex, savory, smoky nose. Despite having five years of age, this is a wine that has much more to give. Funky, wild, yeasty, and complex, with some volatile acidity, remarkable freshness, nice, leesy weight, and a long, tapering finish. Is this really Trebbiano? It seems too good 18

Nicolas Belfrage: 1 = color of water and 9 = deep gold: Col 3.5. Slightly cloudy. Powerful but balanced nose of scent, wild thyme, and honey. Mouth-filling palate, with fairly fierce acidity needed for aging, and very complex flavors held by that acidity. Very long, very special; shows that Italy can produce great white wine 18.5

Alex Hunt: Slightly hazy appearance, and a lively, punchy aroma that is more yeast than wine—the brewery and the bakery loom larger here than the vineyard. A marked sourness on the palate has more to do with flavor than acidity per se. It’s lean, elegant, very dry, but the beer/sourdough flavor is off-putting. I know people get very excited about this wine, and it’s certainly distinctive, but it relies on a punk aesthetic: It’s about adversarial shock value rather than inherent quality and complexity 14