Tim Atkin: Pale lemon/straw. Light, attractive, peppery Cortese. The palate has more weight and concentration, with angelica spice, bright, crunchy acidity, notes of green olive and fennel, and a refreshing, mouthwatering finish 16

Nicolas Belfrage: 1 = color of water and 9 = deep gold: Col 2.5. Clean, vinous, non-aromatic nose. The nose leads through into the palate, which would be called neutral if it didn’t have good character and balance, with a minerally penetrating but subtle fruitiness on the finish. Firmly dry, it’s a grown-up wine 16

Alex Hunt: Some very ripe, peachy fruit gives an extra layer to the typical apple and pears here. This is certainly an ambitious Gavi, and there is admirable expression and nuance wrought from the grapes, but I can’t help wanting something to offset that luxury—a bit of pith in the texture, or a bit more acidity 15.5