Tim Atkin: Mid-straw/gold. Complex nose: honey and spice and richness. Warm, spicy, clove and macchia-like notes. Rich and honeyed, bags of flavor, some bitterness, possibly a little too developed, but good to drink now 16

Nicolas Belfrage: 1 = color of water and 9 = deep gold: Col 3.5. Quite a meaty wine; dry, firm acidity; has a touch of viscosity, would go well with rich seafood but is not an apéritif style. A little too rich and OTT for the genre 14

Alex Hunt: Very attractive nose of ripe melon, flowers, peach, and a bit of honey. Manifestly less mineral than the Greco norm, though it retains a sense of varietal identity. The palate is fresh in structure, but the flavors seem to be running out of steam already. Wait for the 2012 14