Tim Atkin: Rich straw, with some developed golden hints. So-so Chardonnay, overoaked with flavors of ginger spice and honey and a bitter, oaky, toasty finish. Smoky, fading, slightly vulgar Chardonnay 13.5

Nicolas Belfrage: 1 = color of water and 9 = deep gold: Col 3. This is heavy and outclassed in world terms. Out of balance and hard work to drink 10

Alex Hunt: This amber-colored wine has the sort of popcorn and toffee aromas that you might expect to find in a 20-year-old Chardonnay but that in a three-year-old are a sign of unreconstructed winemaking. Despite lively acidity, this is a heavy mouthful devoid of fruit and an anachronism in the context of gloriously nuanced 21stcentury Chardonnay 13.5