Tim Atkin: Mid-lemon straw. Leesy, very worked nose, with hints of toffee and popcorn. Rich, in-your-face style, with lots of sweet, coconutty oak and high acidity. A wine that doesn’t quite hang together. The impression on the finish is one of oak and raw acid, with insufficient fruit to pad it out - 14

Stephen Brook: Some tropical fruit on the nose: bananas. Broad, rather soft; a heavier style that’s close to flabby, since there’s a distinct lack of acidity. Overall, this is a dull wine, with little zest or length - 12

Alex Hunt: Step back in time, and savor the unbridled tropical fruit salad—this is the nose of the ’90s! Some smart oak on the palate simultaneously demonstrates ambition and shatters the illusion. The fruit and structure struggle to marry, and sour acidity dominates the finish - 13