Stephen Brook: Lush peach-and-passion-fruit nose, this shows a beguiling exoticism without overripeness. Broad, very ripe, a touch soft, but attractively fleshy; there’s enough lightness of touch to prevent this from being heavy. There’s little depth of flavor and not a great deal of acidity, so this won’t make old bones, but it’s enjoyable now for all its youth, and it does show good balance. The finish is spicy and quite vigorous, and there’s surprising complexity. 16.5

Alison Buchanan: An astonishing nose of fresh rhubarb, cassis, and white currant—rather endearing. Chatting briefly to Stephen while a corked wine was being replaced from later in the flight, agitating the wine throughout, the nose changed and became more languid and leesy, rounded and expansive. The palate is rather indolent and richly textured and therefore good lazy-day material, with just enough freshness and minerality to keep you sipping as you contemplate the universe in your hammock. Rich but well balanced 16

Anthony Rose: Yellow-gold. Pretty intense and rich on the nose, with good, opulent, peachy fresh fruit on the mid-palate, and good crafted cellar work, yet with no obvious oak obscuring some nicely concentrated stonefruit flavors in Rhône-style vein, backed by a substantial, powerful finish. 16.5