Stephen Brook: There’s a sweetness of fruit on the nose that is almost confected, but it also has a charm and lift unexpected in a five-year-old Condrieu. Soft on the attack, creamy and rather heavy, it also has admirable concentration and weight of fruit, as well as sufficient acidity to prevent it from sagging on the finish. Though I suspect it would have been better two years ago, it still has presence and personality and could survive an onslaught of mature hard cheeses 17

Alison Buchanan: Golden in color, this presents a rather odd, atypical nose, a compote of peach and apricot made from fruit that was almost on the turn; high-toned and slightly volatile. The palate is much better than suggested on the nose but lacks any focus or direction 13

Anthony Rose: This is relatively pale in color for a wine of five years of age; it’s subtly floral and restrained on both nose and palate, with a tight, almost austere structure and mineral character that suggests it needs another five years in bottle to really flower and open out. A wine that’s actually rather hard to judge at this stage of its development, since it’s giving less pleasure now than I might have hoped for. It may have the structure, but has it got the fruit? I think it just about has, and I am inclined to give it the benefit of the doubt 17