Stephen Brook: Initially neutral nose, which is entirely typical of most young St-Joseph and Marsanne, but with aeration there’s more spice and tang, though it is still subdued. Medium-bodied, with some freshness, a silky texture, but a somewhat neutral fruit quality. It’s reasonably well balanced, but there’s not much excitement or personality here. Serviceable as a food wine with, say, chicken in a cream-and-tarragon sauce, but it’s not a wine that will linger in the memory. The finish is modest, with little persistence or flair. 14.5

Alison Buchanan: Very rich gold/pale amber, this presents a powerful leesy nose, toasted and gently smoky, stone fruit melded with vanilla cream. This is quite modern, rich and fleshy, succulent and ripe, with (just) enough mineral definition and acidity to balance. Rather alcoholic, and there is just not enough steel to give real direction—the kind of focus that works with food—so a little anemic for my taste but certainly long 15

Anthony Rose: Yellow-gold in color, this is lightly spicy/ toasty with dried apricot fruit on the nose and pleasant stone fruit and honey on the mid-palate; it feels as though it’s starting to fade a little now, and the slight phenolic and alcoholic back-palate detracts rather than adds to a character that could enjoy a little more fresh-fruit zip and richness. 14.5