Stephen Brook: Lively and stylish nose, showing pear and apricot aromas and some expensive oak. But the palate lets it down, being heavy and close to flabby. Oak gives some spice, but the fruit itself lacks vigor. There’s no flair or freshness here, and the finish is short and dogged 12

Alison Buchanan: Glittering yellow-gold, this is rather unusual on the nose—rather volatile, with hints of varnish. The palate echoes the nose, making for an uneasy drink, high on Uhu glue and leaving rather unfortunate, scampering orchard fruit running for cover. 8

Anthony Rose: This is rich on the nose, with underlying notes of popcorn, caramel, and butter; it’s a powerful California Chardonnay with the leesy tones of barrel-stirring bringing a degree of complexity to the fruit, which, while not overtly oaky, gives a sensation of sweetness thanks to a high level of alcohol, but it ends up feeling quite disjointed 14