Stephen Brook: Closed nose. Soft, slack, blowsy, past whatever might have been its best, leaving alcohol and bitterness on the finish 10

Alison Buchanan: Oh, dear—a very odd, twisted nose, oily and pungent, old engine oil rather than appetizing spice. Palate is anemic and soft, gentle, with no hard edges but no great endearing features either. This is a soft slipper of a wine that neither jars nor excites. Languid and indolent 10.5

Anthony Rose: This has a rather weak and lightly vegetal nose, showing quite alcoholic fruit with gingery undertones—a victim, it would seem, of excessive heat at vintage time 13