Andrew Jefford: Pale gold in color. A soft, rounded aromatic profile: clean, pristine, fresh, but slightly neutral, as if everything that might be dangerously exciting has been scraped out at some point. On the palate, the wine is fresh, lively, zingy, nettly, with lovely crisp edges; it’s also one of the New Zealand wines that is beginning to hint at a little minerality and a little vinosity. I like the palate a lot but just wish there was more gristle to the aromas to push it farther into the “very good” bracket 14.5

Andreas Larsson: Floral nose, with hints of elderflower and chamomile. The palate is on the lighter side; youthful fruit and a zesty acidity; mediumlong finish. It delivers good freshness but no complexity 12

Stephan Reinhardt: Almost white again. Discreet fruit flavors, refined and subtle. Lean on the palate, racy and mineral. Toward the finish, there is not much more than minerality and a promise: “I am fine, a long-distance wine; my acidity is searing, but my time is still to come.” I believe in that 16