Andrew Jefford: Mid-gold in color. There’s a yeasty business to the scents, over a leafy baseline; but there’s also a slightly chemical note, too. Acidic and tart on the palate, yet with a little sweetness at the edges: not much between. The leafiness disappears in the mid-palate, leaving a hard, cooking-apple acidity. The wine seems, in fact, entirely structured by its acidity: There is little glycerol, vinosity, or mineral resonance, and you don’t get any of the fruity charms that make (for example) high-latitude Riesling such a joy. Take away the acidity, and you would be left with almost nothing. The one positive point is that the acidity is round and not raw, sharp, hard, and dry 11

Andreas Larsson: The nose is intense and combines some mineral notes with nuts, almonds, and yellow stone fruit. It’s rich and ripe, with a round and unctuous mouthfeel, still with a good level of freshness in the background; intense flavor; long and balanced aftertaste 15

Stephan Reinhardt: Intense yellow color. Very rich and aromatic on the nose. Powerful and sweet (due to extract) on the palate; good acidity, but the alcohol is dominating and numbing 13