Essi Avellan: Deep golden color. Soft, evolved, slightly oxidizing nose of toast, toffee, and dried apricots. Weighty on the round palate. Creamy mousse, but dryness of the finish does not match the sweet fruit. Short finish, with some tartness 17

Simon Field: Rather deep straw coloring, then notes of the bakery at the end of the day when trade has been passably good. Palate is uncompromising, dry, and a little laconic; dried-fruit profile with a hint of sourdough. Lacks a little finesse and fizz, but fits the zero-dosage billing perfectly 15.5

Tom Stevenson: Old-gold color; apricot, and marmalade aromas; astringent redcurrant fruit, with a light but firm mousse that is almost irrelevant to the wine. If given a softer mousse and a little dosage, this would be so much better 16