Michael Edwards: Yellow, some green lights; quite evident dosage, it seems to me, perhaps to bring the wine to market quickly. Relatively forward for an ’08 but little excitement or distinctiveness 14

Simon Field: Forward style, with fulsome mousse and a fruity, expressive nose. The palate is writ large, with the exotic married to more prosaic citric descriptors; a Viennese waltz taken at a rather faster tempo than is perhaps wise 14.5

Tom Stevenson: Not classic, but has a nice freshness, an interesting touch of pear confiture, and the barest whisper of vanilla 15