Andrew Jefford: Mid-gold, with a sustained mousse. Lovely scents: billowing snowy vanilla, a little warmed cream, poised summer fruits. Outstanding aromatic craftsmanship. On the palate, the wine is deep, bready, full, and plump, with a restrained dosage and fruits that are now adult and vinous. It’s long; it’s almost punchy. Perhaps you’d hope for a little more finesse from a blanc de blancs, but the rigor, depth, and truth to place of this wine are outstanding. In terms of concentration, too, this is one of the top two or three wines in the flight. Magnificent work. That drill bit of fruit pushes on right the way through the finish and buzzes with aromatic force all the way. 17.5

Tom Stevenson: Peachy Chardonnay fruit with an evolved mix of vanilla, coffee, and toast. 17